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 Post subject: Re: Finally found you all
Posted: Thu May 30, 2013 10:10 pm 

johnlewismcleod wrote:
Inspector's license?!!! :o ....get a rope! :evil:








Glad you found us, RLP :D


I'll never use it, but it's good leverage, and they (most of them) think twice before busting your stones too bad after you explain that you know the rules.

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 Post subject: Re: Finally found you all
Posted: Thu May 30, 2013 9:36 pm 

Thanks, all.

OS, been jammed at work, and it took me a while to find the new place.

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Posted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 7:58 pm 

Cordless cut off tool with thin blade. Especially if its already snapped 26 ga.

You'll never pick up a set of snips again.

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 Post subject: Re: Propress Ring kit
Posted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 7:46 pm 

Defineatley a must have. We use it quite often. It will get you into spots you will never believe.

Expensive, but worth it.

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Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 6:32 pm 

Dave attell.

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Posted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:13 am 

I installed a flo logic for a customer. He bought it. They recommend installing it upstream of irrigation, so it wouldn't have helped anyway.
It is a pita. I was back 6 times to reprogram it. I finally told them to read the book and do it themselves. Plenty of nuisance trips.

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 Post subject: Re: Stucco drill bit
Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 8:10 am 

http://www.diteq.com/DryBits.html

Basically, the same type of bit granite guys use for countertops.

Getting the hole started takes some practice.

I use a larger angle grinder than they do, to get through block foundations. Got some extensions for brick and stone faced block foundations.

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 Post subject: Re: Stucco drill bit
Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:35 pm 

You can hold the long core bit with a leather glove, an ugly glove, or a ridgid sewer mitt to get it started, just like you hold a drain cleaning cable.

You need to use a variable speed grinder, and spin it slow.

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 Post subject: Re: How would you fix this?
Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 6:10 pm 

Dude, sometimes you got to know when to say when. Is it really worth the couple of hundred bucks [if its even that much] that a roofer will charge you?

Think long and hard about the possible consequences.

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Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:46 pm 

You are not authorised to read this forum.

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Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:43 pm 

Damp crawlspace.

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Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 12:56 pm 

You are not authorised to read this forum.

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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:14 am 

I just got them from "Mil 3" . google it.

Made in the USA. And you can't beat the price.

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 Post subject: Re: Concrete finish
Posted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 6:49 am 

I are a good concrete man. we fixed the curb box, and we fixa concrete too.

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 Post subject: Re: Concrete finish
Posted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 7:50 am 

And I'm kidding.

Homeowner did it. We had to turn off the main, and the riser was kicked. Didn't want to pay me to do it.

I think he finished it with a piece of 2 x 4, then applied the broom finish.

awful.

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 Post subject: Re: Sucks to be you
Posted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:50 pm 

So, tech support didn't ask him the gas pressure? kinda hard to believe.

Or they did, and he lied about it.

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Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:26 pm 

I'm not an AC guy, but I would guess that flex would be pretty durable as long as it wasn't exposed to sunlight. Plastic lasts nearly indefinitely if it doesn't get UV exposure.

I've crawled through too freaking many attics for too many freaking years and never seen Mylar flex falling apart...until I tear it up to get it out of the way, of course 8-)

Smells like :bs from here.

Mylar does last a long time, I've never seen it fail.

Around here, there's a lot of flex that has a light gray plastic outer jacket.
It's around 20 years old. It splits and crumbles.

And we see really bad failures with the "space pak" brand of ductwork. The 3" high velocity stuff.

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Posted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:18 pm 

You are not authorised to read this forum.

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Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 7:49 am 

I have a 15 year old Fein. It has a screw to hold the blades on. I was bumming cause all the blades are quick change now. Old style ones are hard to find.

I picked up a new style blade and an adaptor yesterday at the lumberyard. Figured id see if I can get them to work. Guess what, you don't even need the adaptor. The center hole in the new style blades fits perfectly. Bolt it on and go!

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 Post subject: Re: Questions for Canadians
Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 8:05 am 

My wifes doctors office is outside a retirement community. They call it "Death Valley" :shit

And drivers in Delaware are just as bad, if not worse. Them idiots WILL NOT get out of the left lane.

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 Post subject: Re: The boat thread
Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 8:01 am 

Best boat name ever

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Posted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:42 pm 

26 ga. Galvanized lasts about forever.

Some of the cheaper flex doesn't last long at all, especially in a hot attic. Ive seen it all split and it will crumble in your hand.

Maybe that's what he as talking about.

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 Post subject: Re: Tub Install
Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:45 am 

Structolite .
Or non shrink grout.

Mortar will shrink.

Joint compound gets moldy when applied that thick. No strength to it

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 Post subject: Re: Tub Install
Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 4:50 pm 

Mortor will shrinks?? That's a first I heard... if use visqueen on floor , that will keep the water. In mortar for it to cure properly

Yes, it does.


FAQs - Sakrete

http://www.sakrete.com/tech-data/faqs.cfm‎


A: Masonry mortar is composed of one or more cementitious materials, fine mason ... All portland cement products shrink to a certain extent. ...
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